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The County does, as
a matter of fact, possess a good deal more ground that might almost be
called mountain than is often supposed to be the case. On its eastern
side, Whatborough Hill, Robin-a -Tiptoe and Billesdon Coplow are all round
700 to 800 feet and the whole of that area affords a succession of
delightful landscapes, with wooded hills and valleys, that "Top Country.,"
as it is called, over which the Quorn, the Cottesmore and the Fernie still
hunt the fox, albeit in the modest style which alone is possible under the
conditions of to-day.
It is, however, in
the western half of the County, on the other side of the valley of the
Soar, that a series of geological events of a very pronounced kind in the
remote past has left us our most striking scenery. The Forest or Chace of
Charnwood, otherwise Charley Forest or Chace, as the legal documents of
the late 18th century called it, is an area some six miles by four, of
steep-sided hills and valleys, many of the summits bare and rocky, clothed
in the main with rough grass or bracken, though in a few places the
heather still shows its purple bloom. With the exception
of two or three flat valley bottoms the Forest was almost uncultivated
until the increase of population in the latter half of the 18th century,
and the consequent demand for more food, led to its survey and enclosure
in about 1820, a piece of work with which my great-grandfather had a great
deal to do. In the early Middle Ages the whole area was covered with woods
and full of deer and game. The good monks of Ulverscroft and Charley
Priories had no lack of savoury meat to supplement the fish from their
stew-ponds.
I was lucky enough,
a good-many years ago now, to have a first hand account of what the
Forest was like before its enclosure from the last survivor of that time,
the late Mr. John Whitcroft of Ulverscroft. He was born, lived his life
and died in the same little house near Copt Oak church and was for many
years a well known character in the neighbourhood. He told me a lot of
interesting things about the days of his youth, when he used to drive
sheep from off the Forest to Lichfield market, slipping them into some
grass field after dusk for a night's feed and rest, and getting under way
again before anyone was about in the morning, having slept himself in the
ditch under an old sack.
One sentence of his
has always stuck in my memory, from its vivid description of the Forest as
seen before the enclosure. He talked, I should perhaps explain, in the old
Leicestershire speech, now so seldom heard. "Ah remember," he said, "when
Ah were a lad, as the Forest 'ad used to be that 'igh in goss and feen as
Ah've often enoof bin down a'moost as far as Loofborough lookin' for me
father's cows, and they was cluss at 'oom all the whoile".
He was a great hand
at sheep-washing, and would stand up to his middle in the water all day,
provided he was kept going with a periodical pint of ale. At the end of
the day he would be topped up with a final quart and hoisted into his
donkey cart. The donkey was then given the word and found her own way
home, while John slept off the fatigues of the day. The County Council has
recorded his name on the signposts at the two ends of the road on which he
lived-known after him as Whitcroft's Lane.
The oak woods planted
on many of the hill sides at the time of the enclosure are, alas, in many
cases now disappearing through the country's urgent need for timber.
Enough, however, still remains to afford a scene of rare beauty in the
spring, when the first green is on the trees; and later on when the oaks
and the bracken have taken on the golden brown of autumn.
Everybody who knows
the Forest must have been glad to see that in the second report of the
National Parks Committee, which came out a few months ago, it was one of
the areas recommended for special treatment, in order that its peculiar
charm may not be spoilt.
Leicestershire is by
no means one of the larger Counties, but it has nevertheless had its place
in the history of this country from very early times. Leicester was a
Roman town of some importance, at the point where the great Fosse Road
crossed the river Soar.
In Saxon times it was the seat, of a missionary
bishopric in the kingdom of Mercia, removed afterwards to Dorchester, on
the Thames at the time of the Danish invasions. Some 21 years ago the
Diocese was revived, and the church of St. Martin's became the Cathedral.
In Norman times a
meeting of barons was held in Leicester, which was the first open stage in
the process which led up to the signing of Magna Carta. The parliament of
Simon de Montfort in 1265 was the first in which burgesses from the cities
and towns were included. It was at Bosworth Field in the south-western
part of the County that the death of Richard the Third brought the Middle
Ages, in the main, to a close. Cardinal Wolsey's eventful life reached its
end at Leicester Abbey.
Lady Jane Grey,
whose ambitious relations manoeuvred her on to the throne of England for
nine days, and thence to the scaffold, was born and lived for most of her
short life at Bradgate Park, a few miles north of Leicester, on the
southern edge of Charnwood Forest Some twenty years
ago, these 830 acres of deer park, lying round the ruins of the 16th
century house of the Greys, were bought by the late Mr. Charles Bennion,
helped in every way by the present representative of the Grey family, and
given in trust to the City and County.
The park is a most
lovely place, with rocky hills, pollarded oaks many hundreds of years old,
a trout stream running through a narrow valley, red and fallow deer,
foxes, badgers and birds, with a dry stone wall six miles long round it.
Since then three or four, other generous people have followed Mr.
Bennion's example, with the result that we now have nearly 1,200 acres
safe and sound for all time.
The County had its
share in the Parliament Wars. Charles the 'First called at one of the
older houses, on his way north after his defeat at Naseby, and left there
his embroidered saddle and silver mounted pistols. In the hall of another
old house there are still to be seen two lay figures, one of them wearing
the steel helmet and complete body armour of Hazlerigg's Lobsters," the
regiment raised and commanded by the ancestor of our Lord Lieutenant.
I have always
remembered with great pleasure the link which we have at Anstey with the
Jacobite Rebellion of 1745. When my grandfather was a boy, there was an
old man there who, when a lad, had been captured by a foraging party of
the Highland army from Derby. His experiences with the Scots had left no
very pleasant impression on his memory. In his old age he became slightly
dotty and used to wander about the fields. His grandchildren, when sent
out to look for him, had an unfailing specific. They would get to windward
of him and make a noise like the bagpipes. As soon as he heard this, the
old man always legged it for home as fast as his feet would carry him.
Leicestershire has
been prominent both in farming and manufacturing for a long time past.
Our most famous farmer was perhaps Robert Bakewell of Dishley, near
Loughborough, who, at the end of the 1700's, first developed the
scientific breeding of stock. He changed the Leicestershire sheep from a
raw boned, goat-like object to the rounded, well covered creatures of the
present day. In his kitchen notable people from all over Europe used to
assemble to talk over what they had seen on his farm, until, punctually as
the clock struck ten, he knocked out his last pipe and went off to bed.
For many centuries
Leicester has been one of the main centres of the wool trade, and to-day
Leicestershire hosiery and shoes, and the wonderful machines which are
made in the City and County to knit the one and to sew the other, are
known all over the world. The County also has a coalfield, justly famed
for its freedom from disputes and for its constant attainment of its
target tonnages.
For 100 years and
more the Leicestershire group of granite quarries has been famous among
those who make and repair roads.
For many years I
knew intimately this latter side of the County's life. I can still see in
my mind's eye the blocker in Mountsorrel Quarry, with the arms and
shoulders of a prize-fighter, lift his great 28 lb. hammer to deliver his
attack on a stone weighing perhaps a couple of tons: he knew just where to
hit it, and in what direction, so as to fit in with the grain of the
stone, and it would split up before your eyes into the raw material of
kerb-stones and paving-setts. In his little hut, the settmaker, whose
skill descended from father to son, and sometimes to grandson, would
convert the rough block into the finished paving-stone, hitting it here
and there with his dressing hammer until, as if by magic, the edges
straightened out and the ends became square, almost as if it had been
sawn.
Among my most
cherished possessions is a photograph taken in the quarry thirty years ago
of all the men still at work who had been at Mountsorrel for forty years
or more. There were 97 of them, and their years of service amounted to
4,522. The oldest of them had 75 years of work to his credit, and was
still sweeping the yard and greasing wagons; he would have been very
indignant if you had told him that he was too old to go on any longer. My
cousin and I sat in the middle of them, with memories of our
great-grandfather, who took the first lease more than 100 years ago.
Having been a County
Councillor and Chairman of its Education Committee for a good many years,
I cannot but say a word or two about that aspect of the Council's 'work.
For 43 years, up to his retirement some 18 months ago, the County has been
blessed with the guidance of the most distinguished of England's Directors
of Education, Sir William Brockington. It was he who, more than 30 years
ago brought into being for the first time in a country district the kind
of school now known as Secondary Modern. Under his inspiration the
Education Committee has built on the old foundation schools of the County
a network of Grammar Schools equalled in any area of its size, besides
three Technical Colleges to foster the industries of Coalville, Hinckley
and Melton Mowbray. In Loughborough Engineering College, which has been
the joint work of Sir William and Dr. Herbert Schofield, its Principal
since 1914, the County has a possession which, though as Chairman of its
Governors I perhaps ought not to say so, may justly be called unique. It
has 1400 whole-time students, drawn from forty different nationalities: a
greater proportion of them are in hostels than in any University except
Oxford and Cambridge: its Teacher Training Department for men is the
largest in the country. In its gymnasiums and swimming baths and on its J
00 acres of playing fields, more than 10,000 officers and men of the RAF,
disabled in war service, were restored to health and strength by the RAF
Rehabilitation Centre.
In the two great
struggles for our national existence Leicestershire men have done their
part. Its record in the last war has won for our County Regiment the
distinguished title of the Royal Leicestershire. Our Yeomen and our
Territorials took their full share in France and Flanders in the first
war, and in the much wider and more diverse sphere of the second.
This then is the
County, and these are the people, among whom my life has been spent, in
peace and in war. If I have succeeded in any degree in conveying to you
something of their character and of their atmosphere, you may perhaps
understand why I am able to say of Leicestershire, in the words of the
Latin poet, "Ille terra rum mihi paeter omnes Angulus ridet," "It
is that corner of the world above all others which has a smile for me."
Or, in the words of an older poet in the Psalms of David, "The lot is
fallen unto me in a fair ground, yea I have a goodly heritage."
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